Transformation of the Traditional Runway: Presentation is everything

In a world where fashion is constantly evolving, it should not come as a surprise that the presentation of these clothes is changing as well. Usually, when thinking of how designers showcase their new collections, one pictures the standard fashion week—white tents, photographers and stone-faced models strutting the runways. As the number of shows increase —this year at Bryant Park Fashion Week, 257 shows competed for attention—more designers are turning to less conventional ways to show their designs.

This week, I searched the blogoshere for new ways in which designers have reinvented the standard runway show. Below are the links to two interesting posts I came across and my responses regarding the new direction runway is heading. Designer Karl Lagerfield acted on the belief that bigger is always better, and took runway fashion to new heights when he showed his Asian-inspired Fendi collection on The Great Wall of China (seen below). Target also believes tented shows as a thing of the past and is attempting to capture the futuristic element of fashion. In a bold and untraditional move, Target is showing the new collections of their collaborating designers in a virtual runway show, set to take place in Grand Central Station this November. In both of these examples, designers capitalize on the added level of impact a show has when the designs and the presentation are cohesive.

Great Wall of Fendi

This is a perfect example of how there are no limits to a designer’s creativity. Karl Lagerfield looked beyond just the designs of the clothing and saw that a greater impact could come from the presentation. The show was especially powerful because the designs were inspired by Asian aesthetic and they were shown on top of China’s greatest monument, The Great Wall of China. Actress and guest of the Fendi show, Thadie Newton describes the occasion perfectly, saying “You could see all of Karl's inspiration in the way he designed the clothes—the beautiful spheres, the belt that was reminiscent of the actual construction of the wall. It was all there, so I felt like it was Fendi's gift back to China.” China has been a rising economic and political force, so it makes sense that the fashion world is starting to take notice as well. While a production of this magnitude generates media attention from around the globe, only a designer as respected as Karl Lagerfield or a design house as respected as Fendi could pull something of this scale off. The thought of using a historical monument can be, at first thought, a bit disrespectful, but the prestige and good press a brand like Fendi brings could actually benefit people’s perception of China as a whole. Fashion brings a sort of glamour and allure to a country like China, which has never been a desired destination in the past. It could be a step towards re-branding the countries image.

Target Creates Runway Illusion

For Target, which has a history of constantly reinventing themselves by collaborating with high fashion designers, the virtual runway shows are proof of how important they feel it is to stay ahead of the other retail competition. Doing something as futuristic as a 3-D fashion show is guaranteed to generate media attention, whether or not the show is a success. I also found it fitting for target, a brand of the everyday American, to choose a high-traffic, urban commuting zone like Grand Central Station. It takes the elitism out of the normal runway shows and brings fashion directly to the people. Target, a discount store, has always prided itself on good quality at a reasonable price, and the hologram runway show serves to further their brand image. They are ahead of their competition, but still a brand for the masses. It is too soon to tell how the fashion world will perceive this show but this could be a step in the direction of fashion’s future.

The Muse: Inspiration Behind the Design

Designers find inspiration for their collections from a number of different things. A beautiful landscape, a color that grabs their attention or a strong emotion can all ignite spurs of creativity. Most commonly, however, designers are inspired by the people surrounding them, often a specific person, sometimes referred to as a muse. According to Suzy Menkes, highly acclaimed fashion writer and editor, a muse is “one of the [fashion] industry’s least understood, most controversial but seemingly essential roles.” Designers have long been inspired by certain stylish friends of high class stature, but the air of aristocracy surrounding the role of the muse makes one wonder if this role will fade away with an increasingly modern and more practical world.

Today the term muse is used too broadly; so many people are not exactly sure what the term implies. According to Lady Amanda Harlech (seen below with designer Karl Lagerfield), a former editor who married into aristocracy and is probably the most well known muse in the fashion world, “There is a need of some figure in the highly sophisticated image-making houses: something romantic and ephemeral, a link with the old way of creating that is rapidly disappearing.” In this sense of the word, this woman must come from tremendous wealth or often royalty in order to afford couture clothes that emit the level of elegance and romance that is required of a muse. Often confused with fashion icons, there is a significant distinction. A fashion icon develops when there is a public obsession with stylish woman such as Jackie Onasses, Marilyn Monroe and Princess Diana, while a fashion muse works directly with a designer, ideally serving as a constant source of influence. Since many designers are men they often design their clothing with one particular woman in mind, to use as a form of reference for the shape of their clothing and to receive feedback from. Male designers, who are most likely gay, may have great vision, but they need to make sure that their ideas are something that a real girl can relate to and wear.

Originally referring to Greek goddesses, like the one featured to the right, in classical mythology, the role of the muse seems to be shifting from that of a passive idol to a more active participant. Today’s muse has a much higher level of interaction with the designers and can contribute to a designer’s vision in various ways. Sometimes they suggest ideas, or shop for intriguing pieces; sometimes it is as simple as portraying themselves in captivating ways. Amanda Harlech, former muse to John Galliano, would change clothes as many as six times a day to constantly evoke new ideas and new inventions. Muses today often work along side the designer, and act as a stylist or creative advisor. The designer-muse relationship is mysterious and complicated, which often makes it controversial. Although the designers are usually gay, according to Alexander McQueen’s former muse, Isabella Blow, “the deep friendship can often get quite sexual; it does have a romance.” The graphics below demonstrate how Isabella's style influenced McQueen's designs. Because they are working so close together a designer often becomes infatuated with their muse, worshiping everything she does, so needless to say a break-up between the two is almost like a divorce. The position of a muse used to be more of an unspoken relationship, yet now the job often receives a high level of recognition and even a salary in some cases.

Like the Greek goddesses that preceded them, today’s muse have a certain untouchable quality, which makes them both intriguing yet difficult to relate to. A designer not only wants their creations to be beautiful, but also sellable and wearable. Simon Doonan, creative director at Barney’s New York, has a more practical opinion about what a muse should emulate. He feels that a “democratization of the muse” is needed, or in other words that designers could create styles for a wider range of people if they based their designs off figures that the public could better identify with. The figure must still be a public spectacle, however, perhaps not so aristocratic. Celebrities, in Doonan’s opinion, are easier for the public to relate to because they are a constant media spectable. There is no doubt that the muse serves an important element in the world of fashion design, for inspiration is the key element to any successful collection, however the role she plays is in a transitional state and it is difficult to determine what the muse of the future will be like.